Spectacular views of the Khumbu Valley in the snow!!!! This morning we awoke to a blanket of fresh snow over night. We had a couple of inches on the ground. This will make the steep trail to the top of the pass slippery but it will keep the dust down. Overnight it has snowed quite far down the valley. It is a really beautiful sight. We are off around 7 am after a basic breakfast and an ok night’s sleep. We are getting to altitudes where sleep can be a real issue. Today’s walk will be up a side valley that leads to the base of a peak call Pokalde, we are not planning to climb this peak but cross the pass just below it. Makalu is the major peak we can see to the East. We can also see Baruntse just in front of Makalu. Baruntse is the peak Martin and I went to climb last November after a long trek across the Himalaya starting in the Rolwaling and crossing the Khumbu valley into the upper Hongu valley. This was a spectacular trek. We are now really focused on getting to Everest Base Camp but not by the Everest Highway. Our route has taken us on the “Death March” through Phortse Village and now over the Kongma La (La means pass in the Sherpa language) at 5530 meters (18,143 feet). The walk was a steady up hill climb past some very beautiful frozen lakes until we were right underneath the pass and then we climbed steeply up next to a rock face to the very pass. From here we could see Lobuche and all the peaks down the valley from Cho Oyu to Makalu but not Everest as we were right underneath it!!! We spent nearly an hour on top enjoying the sunshine and the fantastic view. Then we started down to Lobuche only about 1,500 to 2,000 feet below. The hardest part of the trek to Lobuche was crossing the Khumbu Glacier which is completely rock covered at this point. In the morning we will be heading to Base Camp located at the base of the Khumbu Icefall on the Khumbu Glacier. We arrived at the Eco Lodge in Lobuche around 2:30pm some 7 hours after we left Chukung. What a beautiful day this has been. Martin and Steve are doing well and ready to head into Base Camp in the morning. posted by the dozer



The gang with views of Makalu and Baruntse



On the way to the Kongma La



Steve and Martin resting on top of Kongma La

Friends and Family The village of Pangboche is home to my Sherpa family. Lama Geshe’s youngest son Jigme is going to school in the USA. I am his sponsor and adopted son. I am an adopted member of his family. This morning his elder sister Tashi and her 10 year son, Juno, came to see us off. We drank lots of hot lemon and tea before we got ready to walk up to Chukung. We got all of Nima’s family and Tashi and her son together for a photo when Juno insisted on taking the picture. He also wanted to have us stay so he could use the internet. I suggest that he and his Mother come to BC and he could use the internet there but he informed me that they needed to stay and run the lodge or they would not have enough money to have clean clothes or to go to school in KTM. Off we went towards Mt Everest… as we rounded the corner just outside of Pangboche we were greeted by a perfectly clear view of Nuptse, Lhotse and Mt Everest. We had to stop and take a picture. It turns out that from this point on we will not be able to see Mt. Everest again until we are in the Western Cwm above the Khumbu Icefall. We are now on the Everest Highway… most of the folks and loads are heading towards BC. We really don’t want to stay on this dusty trail for long. We are heading to Chukung partly to get a night at a higher altitude and to stay away from the crowds. Staying in Lodges filled with various trekkers just increases our exposure to folks in ill health. The last thing we need before arriving in BC is to become ill. It is difficult to fight off a cold or a cough at these high altitudes. After about 5 hours walking we arrive in Chukung. The lodge is not very crowded so we are lucky. After a basic meal we are off to bed. Tomorrow will be a hard day as we are planning to cross a high pass between Chukung and Lobuche. This will be the high point of the trek to Everest Base Camp. posted by the dozer



Nima Tashi's family and friends



Juno and Tashi



Last View of Everest

20100411 – Butting Heads with the Lama Head butting and a blessing from Lama Geshi Bacon, eggs and toast for breakfast at Nima’s prepared by our guide and friend Jetha who has been with us all the way from KTM. Today we will do a little packing and clean up before heading up to see Lama Geshi. One of the main reasons for stopping in Pangboche is that this is the home of Lama Geshi. This is the main Lama who blesses most sherpas and expeditions to mountains in the Khumbu area. For sherpas this blessing and prayers are important parts of the culture. We will have a puja, a blessing, for the entire expedition at Base Camp but for now we will all go up and visit with Lama Geshi. We will get words of encouragement and suggestions for a long life. Lama Geshe is the most learned Lama in the entire Khumbu. The title of Geshe is one of the highest educational designations that a Lama can attain. He is a jovial fellow with a big smile and an infectious laugh. It is always auspicious when meeting a holy man or visiting sacred site to touch it with your head. With Lama Geshe this has turned into a real head butt followed by a big laugh. We made it up to his lodge and went into butt heads with the Lama. After a short visit and some new wishes for a long life Lama Geshi he wrote us all cards to carry with us on the expedition. As we headed back down Lama Geshe gave us all the blessing he gives every Losar (Sherpa New Year). The Lama offers a request to all beings: Give up all intention to harm others from your heart And do your best to benefit them all If each and everyone feels the universal responsibility to do, We will all enjoy the feast of peace!!!! Posted by JMW



Steve butting heads with Lama Geshe



Martin butting heads

Long, Long Trek to Pangboche The night in Namche signaled a change in the weather…the clouds filed the valley and no stars shone thru all night long. This was a sign of a change in the weather. We will probably have clouds and possibly snow to deal with as we get closer to Base Camp. This morning we were up early and ready to walk from Namche to Pangboche. The Fat Guy had talked Steve and Martin into walking the “long way” to Nima Tashi’s house. He assured them that if he could do it certainly they would have no problem at all with the walk. It might take a little longer than the normal way but as the Sherpa’s say “a little up go and a little down go … but mostly flat”. It is really very hard to leave the comforts of the Panorama Lodge in Namche… rooms with clean sheets, running hot and cold water in an attached bath and the wonderful company of Sherup Zhangbu’s family. Sherup’s wife Lhakpa Doma and their daughter Rita have hosted our short stay in Namche and made us feel right at home. Rita recently finished her nursing program in Kathmandu and opened a Mountain Medicine clinic in Namche. After some big hugs and a few sips of “chang” they sent us on our way. Our next stop was to deliver shoes, a jacket and some gifts from a sherpa in Jackson to his Mother and Father in Khumjung. This was a short one hour walk up about 1,000 ft past the famous Everest View Hotel. The view from the observation deck is outstanding when the weather is clear. Unfortunately the clouds are beginning to form over Everest as we reach the Hotel so we just keep on going to Khumjung. After a short visit with Sange Dorji’s family and an exchange of gifts and photos we are again off to Pangboche via the long way. To some in the South Eastern USA the idea that this expedition is being lead by The Fat Man seems so out of place that Steve and Martin had expressed concern from their friends that maybe he could not keep the pace. The Fat Man aka Dozer felt as though it was his duty to put the entire crew to the test. Off we went towards Pangboche. The first section was a steep climb up through the cliffs on narrow steps built and perched against the shear vertical cliff followed by a gradual uphill walk to the top of the Mong La, a pass at nearly 4,000 meters (13,120 feet). From here we could see the rest of what lay ahead… down to the river and then back up again and finally along steep hill side to Pangboche far up the river valley at the base of Ama Dablam. Down we went and back up again to Phortse village the soon to be home of the Khumbu Climbing School. Just above the village we came upon a small herd of wild goats. It was special to get s close to these animals that not so many years ago had almost disappeared from the Khumbu all together. We reached the main trail to Pangboche. The trail to Pangboche from Phortse is not used often by trekking groups nor is it on the “Everest Highway” that most folks follow on their way to Base Camp. We were all alone passing only one other trekker the entire afternoon. Up and down followed by another up and down and as we turned the corner there was yet another UP and down… the Fat Man in the lead going at his dozer pace the ups and downs slowly passed and Pangboche was in sight…the last corner and “Oh shit” one more up and then down followed by some flat. We made it to the upper village of Pangboche and as we pasted the Gompa we ran into Lama Geshi. We got our first hello and head butt before heading down to Nima Tashi’s house for dinner and a well deserved rest. The long march was over. The next day we will pack a few more items from Nima’s house and visit Lama Geshi for a blessing…after a good meal it is time for a good nights sleep. Posted by The Fat Man aka Dozer



Graciuos hostess at the Panorama Hotel in namche



The Desath March begins with the Fat Man in the lead!!!!



Delivering the mail from Jackson, Wyoming to Khumjung

Computers, Satellites and problem solving Rest days are always full of things you never expected. Today we spent setting up Steve’s computer and satellite phone to work once we are away from a full time internet connection. We ran into several challenges but have been able to overcome most of them here in Namche. It is always amazing what you find in a place like Namche Bazaar… imagine a place some 7 days walk from the nearest road and at an elevation where few folks in the USA live filled with Internet Cafes and bakeries serving fresh brewed coffee and fresh baked pastries. In and among this collection of folks are some real problem solvers. Today by chance I ran in to another Expedition Leader and he too was spending his rest days sorting out communications issues. He had found the best guy in town to help him. He was finished so I asked for help and in a very short time we had solved our biggest problem and were connected…what a relief. In years past when we were on Expeditions with larger groups we all took on nicknames for fun when posting updates. In the past I have been called “dozer” for my slow and steady pace that has resulted in quite a few folks reaching the goals they set out to accomplish. It seems that one of Steve’s good friends wondered if the “Fat Guy” at dinner in Kathmandu could really get Steve to the top of Mount Everest. The reality is no!!! I am simply here to removal as many obstacles as possible so that Steve can do his best as he attempts to climb to the summit of the world’s highest mountain. It will be up to Steve to reach the summit. It is my job to see to it that there are no real obstacles in his way. He will have every opportunity to do his best and return home safely. If the mountain known as “Mother Goddess of the Earth” allows him to stand on the top he will be ready to do so. The “Fat Guy” will have been successful. We had a nice dinner and are off to bed as again tomorrow we are off to our next rest in Pangboche at the home of our Sirdar Nima Tashi. posted by the “Fat Guy”

Namche the Gateway to the Khumbu Up early and ready to start walking by 7 in the morning both Steve and Martin are eager to get up to Namche where we will rest for two nights. Namche is a strange place as there is no way to get to Namche without going up hill. Even when you are coming down to Namche you must drop to the river just to climb back up to Namche. This is the Gateway to the upper Khumbu Valley that has at it head Mount Everest…our objective over the next month and a half. The walk to Base Camp goes very slowly as we allow our bodies to acclimatize to the new altitudes. In Namche we will stay at the Panorama Hotel which is locate high on the hill above the city center at an elevation of 3440 meters (11,285 feet). At the moment this seems a bit high and every step counts as we do our best to not get out of breath but soon this will seem like the low lands as our Base Camp will be at an elevation of nearly 5,500 meter (17,500 feet). The objective in this slow ascent it to never feel poorly from the altitude. If we move slowly we should be able to arrive in Base Camp in the next week fully acclimatized. I suggested to Martin and Steve that they not go to fast or get out of breath going up hill as this has in the past caused folks to get a cough which can be nearly impossible to get rid of at this altitude. This cough is so legendary that it even has its own name the “Khumbu Cough”. The cause of the cough is probably a combination of dust, breathing hard and high altitude. We decided to all walk together and despite the slow and steady pace of the “Fat Guy” in the lead we still got to Namche in plenty of time for lunch followed by a hot shower and a nice dinner. Tomorrow will be a rest day and a chance to make sure that all our satellite gear is working properly. Posted by the “ Fat Guy”



Walking to Namche



Martin and Steve arriving in Namche

Arrive in Lukla Today we finally made it to Lukla… after a long wait yesterday at the airport in Kathmandu we return and waited only a few hours for them to call our flight. We went to the plane and loaded up then waited and waited again… we waited almost 30 minutes for what seemed forever. Finally we were off. The pilot took a good route as we arrived first after taking off second!!! Gladly we were on the ground. The entire process of flying, landing and starting to hike took less than one hour. When things start to move here they can move very quickly…it is just hard to get started. The walk today starts off down hill to Phakding. The lack of noise and congestion takes a while to get used to but after an hour or two you get back into the pace of the mountains. We can stop and look at the flowers in bloom and notice the new Mani stones along the way (Mani Stones are carved stones with a mantra / prayer carved on it.) after a quick lunch with an old friend of mine Pasang Temba at Kusum Kola just below the mountain Kusum Kangru we walked on to The Sunrise Hotel along the river across the bridge in Phakding. We had a light dinner and then off to bed as we were all a bit tired from our ordeal at the airport. Tomorrow we will head to Namche. Posted by the “Fat Guy”



Finally in the plane and now wait and wait...



Big Loads on the way to Base Camp



Freshly painted Mani Stones on the way to Phakding

Ropes, ladders, crevasse up, up ,up… Today is a special day for Martin. Last autumn season he joined a 45 ay trek and climb in preparation for this years climb of Mt. Everest. All was on track when some unforeseen complications made it so that Martin could only come to Base Camp this year. It was a special treat for Steve to have his climbing buddy accompany him to Base Camp. Now it is our turn to give Martin a special treat. Nima Tashi will take Martin and Steve to practice walking on ladders and climbing through the icefall while I stay and get more and more of Base Camp set up. Here in Steve’s words are the experiences of today: As I went t bed last night I was as nervous as I have ever been in my climbing life. For the first time in my life I was facing something that I could not imagine in my mind what to expect. I had read the books. I had seen pictures but everyone had told me that you will not know what it is until you get there because it is always changing. Nima Tashi, Martin and I left for the falls around 10 am. By 11:15 we had encountered our first ladder. On the way up we were moving fairly quickly as we moved up down sideways etc. It reminded me of the first time I took my kids to the “Jungle Jim’ in Chattanooga. (You know how you climb stairs, crawl through tubes, slide down into balls, and climb the rope to the lookout point.) Well that was what this was like but I was 20 something then maybe early 30’s and I am 48 years old now and the stakes are considerably higher with crevasses everywhere you looked and the potential that the ice fall could reshape at any minute. Nima told us about half way up our climb that what we see today especially as we get higher will be totally different than what we will see in the next few weeks and I totally believe what he is saying because base camp 2010 is totally different than 2009. It is not even close to the same shape and size. I just hope most of these changes are when I am not in the Ice Fall and surly while I am not on the ladder. Anyway I wanted to give you something t hat most of you have seen or done with your children or grand children and if you haven’t then look next time you are at one of those places and imagine you are on ice/snow doing it. Ok back to the story. This ladder was a 10 foot alum ladder standing straight up an ice wall. It really was not too bad but remember I have spikes on my feet , 2 poles in my hands and a assist rope to get down this ladder all the while you are trying to see the steps hold the rope and keep your poles from digging in somewhere where they don’t need to be and hope you don’t fall. Funny huh? Well Go get on you step ladder and try it Ok on to the next ladder. This was about 15 feet across a crevasse that I never saw the bottom, but bear in mind I was not looking either. So this was (2) 10’ alum ladders tied together with straps so the first 5 foot was a double ladder so this made me feel good since I am not the little Sherpa that I just saw almost run over it weighing about 50 kilos( 100 lbs) and didn’t seem to care much about the bottomless crevasse. Any way it was my time to go and we have about 10 people waiting to come down and up and the pressure was on and I was just bearing sweat. You have 2 ropes to help you balance. Right?? These ropes are lying on the ground when you get to the ladder. They are not stretched tight so you could hold on to so you could then just worry about your steps. We all know that would be too easy and the “Ice Doctors” couldn’t keep them up like that because of the glacier movement so you have to provide your own stability. So you pick up the ropes and lean forward to bring tension on the ropes and then you begin your journey. Again I have spikes on my feet, poles dangling from my wrist and me( big ole Steve leaning forward with these ropes) trying to walk on this alum ladder and not trying to think about falling and worse yet, what if the ropes give way I go face first and take a terrible tumble for a long way. (Now I am tied in to these 2 ropes with my harness around my waist connected by 2 carabineers at the end of a rope so there is an element of safety but it the rope anchors fail then you know the answer. Again if you want to know how this feels just go outside and try it on level ground and I bet it will still give u a little scare. ) Well none of us fell, (Thank Goodness) even as we went over several more ladders of varying degrees ( lengths, heights positions) even to a point of having gaining some confidence in doing this that this might not be so bad after all but remember too that this was in the daylight. The next time I see these ladders on Sunday it will be in the dark. Funny it seems like climbing this damn mountain always has some more to offer than any other one I have climbed but I will continue on for another day. I hope I gave you a good picture of what we did for 4 hours today. It was one of the scariest moments but also one of the greatest moments of my life especially having my friend Martin here. He was like a kid in a candy store. He loved it! Remember Martin is 62 years “Young” and did it without any hesitation and he gave me the confidence that I needed to overcome this crucial point in my journey. I have to make it through this Ice Fall 4 times if I have the chance to get to the top of this damn mountain so today left me wanting more and I want to see the changes. posted by the dozer working at base camp

Nima and Martin on asteep section in the ice fall



Martin on a ladder

Blessing for all the climbers We are now on a new schedule here at Base Camp. The mornings start with a cup of tea deliver to your tent just before the sun hits the tent. Just after sun shine is on the tent breakfast is served in the dining tent. Pancakes, bacon, eggs, cereal and just about anything you could want. Then off for the day’s activity. Today after breakfast we all took a shower and that really felt good to put on clean cloths after the long trek to BC. The Lama who is doing Base Camp puja’s came at about 11 AM. Here at Base Camp and in the Khumbu the Sherpa people are Buddhists. They strongly believe that blessings are needed to keep all of us climbing above Base Camp safe. We bring our crampons, ice axes, harnesses and pictures of families to the alter here in Camp. All things are prayed over and blessed. About half way thru the service the pole that holds all the prayer flags is placed in the alter. This is a very special event and must be done by someone with both parents still living. Here is our Base Camp that was Nima Tashi’s son Dawa Tsering. So while Dawa pours blessed rice on the hole the pole is put in place and flags are strung across camp in all directions covering the corners of our camp. Steve, Martin and I sit patiently through all the activities and then the final sharing of food, tea and Mountain Dew for Steve and chang for the Lama happens. We all get a small smearing of blessed barley flour called Tsampa on our cheeks, chin and forehead. Now we are ready to go into the icefall with the blessing of the spirits that resides in high places. We are fortunate this year as there is really no reason for anyone to walk through our camp as we back on to a lake and there is no way across them. This keeps others out and our camp safe from people looking for items that are not theirs. We have a great view of the icefall from our tents. Steve and Martin will head into the icefall for a practice run with Nima Tashi in the morning. posted by the dozer

Getting ready for the puja. All in order before we start.



Dawa Tsering - Nima Tashi's son putting rice in the hole as it is put up.



Nawang Pasang, Lama, and the entire crew at the puja



The Exploradus Tam at Base Camp after the puja

Spectacular views of the Khumbu Valley in the snow!!!! This morning we awoke to a blanket of fresh snow over night. We had a couple of inches on the ground. This will make the steep trail to the top of the pass slippery but it will keep the dust down. Overnight it has snowed quite far down the valley. It is a really beautiful sight. We are off around 7 am after a basic breakfast and an ok night’s sleep. We are getting to altitudes where sleep can be a real issue. Today’s walk will be up a side valley that leads to the base of a peak call Pokalde, we are not planning to climb this peak but cross the pass just below it. Makalu is the major peak we can see to the East. We can also see Baruntse just in front of Makalu. Baruntse is the peak Martin and I went to climb last November after a long trek across the Himalaya starting in the Rolwaling and crossing the Khumbu valley into the upper Hongu valley. This was a spectacular trek. We are now really focused on getting to Everest Base Camp but not by the Everest Highway. Our route has taken us on the “Death March” through Phortse Village and now over the Kongma La (La means pass in the Sherpa language) at 5530 meters (18,143 feet). The walk was a steady up hill climb past some very beautiful frozen lakes until we were right underneath the pass and then we climbed steeply up next to a rock face to the very pass. From here we could see Lobuche and all the peaks down the valley from Cho Oyu to Makalu but not Everest as we were right underneath it!!! We spent nearly an hour on top enjoying the sunshine and the fantastic view. Then we started down to Lobuche only about 1,500 to 2,000 feet below. The hardest part of the trek to Lobuche was crossing the Khumbu Glacier which is completely rock covered at this point. In the morning we will be heading to Base Camp located at the base of the Khumbu Icefall on the Khumbu Glacier. We arrived at the Eco Lodge in Lobuche around 2:30pm some 7 hours after we left Chukung. What a beautiful day this has been. Martin and Steve are doing well and ready to head into Base Camp in the morning. posted by the dozer

The gang with views of Makalu and Baruntse



On the way to the Kongma La



Steve and Martin resting on top of Kongma La



View of Lobuche with Pumori in the background

Friends and Family The village of Pangboche is home to my Sherpa family. Lama Geshe’s youngest son Jigme is going to school in the USA. I am his sponsor and adopted son. I am an adopted member of his family. This morning his elder sister Tashi and her 10 year son, Juno, came to see us off. We drank lots of hot lemon and tea before we got ready to walk up to Chukung. We got all of Nima’s family and Tashi and her son together for a photo when Juno insisted on taking the picture. He also wanted to have us stay so he could use the internet. I suggest that he and his Mother come to BC and he could use the internet there but he informed me that they needed to stay and run the lodge or they would not have enough money to have clean clothes or to go to school in KTM. Off we went towards Mt Everest… as we rounded the corner just outside of Pangboche we were greeted by a perfectly clear view of Nuptse, Lhotse and Mt Everest. We had to stop and take a picture. It turns out that from this point on we will not be able to see Mt. Everest again until we are in the Western Cwm above the Khumbu Icefall. We are now on the Everest Highway… most of the folks and loads are heading towards BC. We really don’t want to stay on this dusty trail for long. We are heading to Chukung partly to get a night at a higher altitude and to stay away from the crowds. Staying in Lodges filled with various trekkers just increases our exposure to folks in ill health. The last thing we need before arriving in BC is to become ill. It is difficult to fight off a cold or a cough at these high altitudes. After about 5 hours walking we arrive in Chukung. The lodge is not very crowded so we are lucky. After a basic meal we are off to bed. Tomorrow will be a hard day as we are planning to cross a high pass between Chukung and Lobuche. This will be the high point of the trek to Everest Base Camp. posted by the dozer

Nima Tashi's family and friends



Juno and Tashi



Last View of Everest

20100411 – Butting Heads with the Lama Head butting and a blessing from Lama Geshi Bacon, eggs and toast for breakfast at Nima’s prepared by our guide and friend Jetha who has been with us all the way from KTM. Today we will do a little packing and clean up before heading up to see Lama Geshi. One of the main reasons for stopping in Pangboche is that this is the home of Lama Geshi. This is the main Lama who blesses most sherpas and expeditions to mountains in the Khumbu area. For sherpas this blessing and prayers are important parts of the culture. We will have a puja, a blessing, for the entire expedition at Base Camp but for now we will all go up and visit with Lama Geshi. We will get words of encouragement and suggestions for a long life. Lama Geshe is the most learned Lama in the entire Khumbu. The title of Geshe is one of the highest educational designations that a Lama can attain. He is a jovial fellow with a big smile and an infectious laugh. It is always auspicious when meeting a holy man or visiting sacred site to touch it with your head. With Lama Geshe this has turned into a real head butt followed by a big laugh. We made it up to his lodge and went into butt heads with the Lama. After a short visit and some new wishes for a long life Lama Geshi he wrote us all cards to carry with us on the expedition. As we headed back down Lama Geshe gave us all the blessing he gives every Losar (Sherpa New Year). The Lama offers a request to all beings: Give up all intention to harm others from your heart And do your best to benefit them all If each and everyone feels the universal responsibility to do, We will all enjoy the feast of peace!!!! Posted by JMW

Steve butting heads with Lama Geshe



Martin butting heads

Long, Long Trek to Pangboche The night in Namche signaled a change in the weather…the clouds filed the valley and no stars shone thru all night long. This was a sign of a change in the weather. We will probably have clouds and possibly snow to deal with as we get closer to Base Camp. This morning we were up early and ready to walk from Namche to Pangboche. The Fat Guy had talked Steve and Martin into walking the “long way” to Nima Tashi’s house. He assured them that if he could do it certainly they would have no problem at all with the walk. It might take a little longer than the normal way but as the Sherpa’s say “a little up go and a little down go … but mostly flat”. It is really very hard to leave the comforts of the Panorama Lodge in Namche… rooms with clean sheets, running hot and cold water in an attached bath and the wonderful company of Sherup Zhangbu’s family. Sherup’s wife Lhakpa Doma and their daughter Rita have hosted our short stay in Namche and made us feel right at home. Rita recently finished her nursing program in Kathmandu and opened a Mountain Medicine clinic in Namche. After some big hugs and a few sips of “chang” they sent us on our way. Our next stop was to deliver shoes, a jacket and some gifts from a sherpa in Jackson to his Mother and Father in Khumjung. This was a short one hour walk up about 1,000 ft past the famous Everest View Hotel. The view from the observation deck is outstanding when the weather is clear. Unfortunately the clouds are beginning to form over Everest as we reach the Hotel so we just keep on going to Khumjung. After a short visit with Sange Dorji’s family and an exchange of gifts and photos we are again off to Pangboche via the long way. To some in the South Eastern USA the idea that this expedition is being lead by The Fat Man seems so out of place that Steve and Martin had expressed concern from their friends that maybe he could not keep the pace. The Fat Man aka Dozer felt as though it was his duty to put the entire crew to the test. Off we went towards Pangboche. The first section was a steep climb up through the cliffs on narrow steps built and perched against the shear vertical cliff followed by a gradual uphill walk to the top of the Mong La, a pass at nearly 4,000 meters (13,120 feet). From here we could see the rest of what lay ahead… down to the river and then back up again and finally along steep hill side to Pangboche far up the river valley at the base of Ama Dablam. Down we went and back up again to Phortse village the soon to be home of the Khumbu Climbing School. Just above the village we came upon a small herd of wild goats. It was special to get s close to these animals that not so many years ago had almost disappeared from the Khumbu all together. We reached the main trail to Pangboche. The trail to Pangboche from Phortse is not used often by trekking groups nor is it on the “Everest Highway” that most folks follow on their way to Base Camp. We were all alone passing only one other trekker the entire afternoon. Up and down followed by another up and down and as we turned the corner there was yet another UP and down… the Fat Man in the lead going at his dozer pace the ups and downs slowly passed and Pangboche was in sight…the last corner and “Oh shit” one more up and then down followed by some flat. We made it to the upper village of Pangboche and as we pasted the Gompa we ran into Lama Geshi. We got our first hello and head butt before heading down to Nima Tashi’s house for dinner and a well deserved rest. The long march was over. The next day we will pack a few more items from Nima’s house and visit Lama Geshi for a blessing…after a good meal it is time for a good nights sleep. Posted by The Fat Man aka Dozer

Graciuos hostess at the Panorama Hotel in namche



The Desath March begins with the Fat Man in the lead!!!!



Delivering the mail from Jackson, Wyoming to Khumjung



Not another up???

Computers, Satellites and problem solving Rest days are always full of things you never expected. Today we spent setting up Steve’s computer and satellite phone to work once we are away from a full time internet connection. We ran into several challenges but have been able to overcome most of them here in Namche. It is always amazing what you find in a place like Namche Bazaar… imagine a place some 7 days walk from the nearest road and at an elevation where few folks in the USA live filled with Internet Cafes and bakeries serving fresh brewed coffee and fresh baked pastries. In and among this collection of folks are some real problem solvers. Today by chance I ran in to another Expedition Leader and he too was spending his rest days sorting out communications issues. He had found the best guy in town to help him. He was finished so I asked for help and in a very short time we had solved our biggest problem and were connected…what a relief. In years past when we were on Expeditions with larger groups we all took on nicknames for fun when posting updates. In the past I have been called “dozer” for my slow and steady pace that has resulted in quite a few folks reaching the goals they set out to accomplish. It seems that one of Steve’s good friends wondered if the “Fat Guy” at dinner in Kathmandu could really get Steve to the top of Mount Everest. The reality is no!!! I am simply here to removal as many obstacles as possible so that Steve can do his best as he attempts to climb to the summit of the world’s highest mountain. It will be up to Steve to reach the summit. It is my job to see to it that there are no real obstacles in his way. He will have every opportunity to do his best and return home safely. If the mountain known as “Mother Goddess of the Earth” allows him to stand on the top he will be ready to do so. The “Fat Guy” will have been successful. We had a nice dinner and are off to bed as again tomorrow we are off to our next rest in Pangboche at the home of our Sirdar Nima Tashi. posted by the “Fat Guy”

Namche the Gateway to the Khumbu Up early and ready to start walking by 7 in the morning both Steve and Martin are eager to get up to Namche where we will rest for two nights. Namche is a strange place as there is no way to get to Namche without going up hill. Even when you are coming down to Namche you must drop to the river just to climb back up to Namche. This is the Gateway to the upper Khumbu Valley that has at it head Mount Everest…our objective over the next month and a half. The walk to Base Camp goes very slowly as we allow our bodies to acclimatize to the new altitudes. In Namche we will stay at the Panorama Hotel which is locate high on the hill above the city center at an elevation of 3440 meters (11,285 feet). At the moment this seems a bit high and every step counts as we do our best to not get out of breath but soon this will seem like the low lands as our Base Camp will be at an elevation of nearly 5,500 meter (17,500 feet). The objective in this slow ascent it to never feel poorly from the altitude. If we move slowly we should be able to arrive in Base Camp in the next week fully acclimatized. I suggested to Martin and Steve that they not go to fast or get out of breath going up hill as this has in the past caused folks to get a cough which can be nearly impossible to get rid of at this altitude. This cough is so legendary that it even has its own name the “Khumbu Cough”. The cause of the cough is probably a combination of dust, breathing hard and high altitude. We decided to all walk together and despite the slow and steady pace of the “Fat Guy” in the lead we still got to Namche in plenty of time for lunch followed by a hot shower and a nice dinner. Tomorrow will be a rest day and a chance to make sure that all our satellite gear is working properly. Posted by the “ Fat Guy”

Walking to Namche



Martin and Steve arriving in Namche

Arrive in Lukla Today we finally made it to Lukla… after a long wait yesterday at the airport in Kathmandu we return and waited only a few hours for them to call our flight. We went to the plane and loaded up then waited and waited again… we waited almost 30 minutes for what seemed forever. Finally we were off. The pilot took a good route as we arrived first after taking off second!!! Gladly we were on the ground. The entire process of flying, landing and starting to hike took less than one hour. When things start to move here they can move very quickly…it is just hard to get started. The walk today starts off down hill to Phakding. The lack of noise and congestion takes a while to get used to but after an hour or two you get back into the pace of the mountains. We can stop and look at the flowers in bloom and notice the new Mani stones along the way (Mani Stones are carved stones with a mantra / prayer carved on it.) after a quick lunch with an old friend of mine Pasang Temba at Kusum Kola just below the mountain Kusum Kangru we walked on to The Sunrise Hotel along the river across the bridge in Phakding. We had a light dinner and then off to bed as we were all a bit tired from our ordeal at the airport. Tomorrow we will head to Namche. Posted by the “Fat Guy”

Finally in the plane and now wait and wait...



Big Loads on the way to Base Camp



Freshly painted Mani Stones on the way to Phakding

Off to Lukla… 1st attempt We are off to the airport…. Let the Expedition begin. We are all on time with all our baggage and cargo ready to fly to Lukla today. There was a large group heading to Tibet this morning as we were heading to the airport. We joked about how lucky we were to not have a 5 day bus ride ahead of us…little did we know what was in store for us!!! We arrived at the airport and all seemed to be on track. We had all our gear accounted for and slowly but surely bags being sent via different airlines as cargos were arriving in Lukla ahead of us. This was a very positive sign. We waited in the airport restaurant and waited until finally we got our boarding pass. Down stairs and into the departure lounge we went. We had only been there a few minutes when our flight was called. With real spring in our step we headed for the plane… PLEASE WAIT…. Was what we were told as the bus stopped just beside the aircraft. This was not a good sign. After a small discussion we were headed back to the airport departure waiting room. “The flight is on stand-by … not cancelled” as what were told. Many, many years ago there was a sign in the Kathmandu airport that ominously reminded passengers of why sometimes it was not a good idea to fly in the clouds in Nepal “We don’t fly in clouds as our clouds have mountains in them!!!” it read. We waited and waited and waited until finally around 5 PM we were told the winds were too high on the Lamajura Pass and that low clouds had developed in the lower valley so we had to come back tomorrow and try again. We collected our bags and got out of the departure lounge where we had been being abused all afternoon by the PA system which loudly announces the flights in at least two languages as well as some ten to twenty times over and over again usually followed by “May I have your attention please…” then the announcement starts again. Listening to this all afternoon gives one a real headache. This coupled with little to eat made us all a little tired. Dinner was the first order of business so off we went to the Ghar-i-Kabab for a nice Indian meal. We all eat too much and felt stuffed as we walked back thru the streets of Kathmandu to our home at the Malla Hotel. On the way back we ran into other Everest climbers from the USA. My old friend Scott Wollums and some of his team stopped to say hello. We will all be on the mountain together in the weeks to come. For now the hustle and bustle of Kathmandu has folks running around being social and enjoying “city life’. We will again go to the airport and attempt to fly to Lukla in the morning. Good night Kathmandu!!! Posted jmw



Waiting the the lounge... all is well for now!!!



Tired and beaten by the loud speaker....



A good meal and a clean bed will remove the pain of waiting

Surprise Easter Gift Happy Easter to all at home!!!! The Expedition and trek members are all here in Kathmandu. Steve arrived without a problem today. We went to check in at the Malla Hotel where a big gift/surprise was waiting for him – Martin Glynn. Steve had no idea that Martin was going to join us on the trek to Base Camp. Martin and Steve have been on the quest to climb Mt Everest together for several years. Martin joined the Baruntse Expedition last autumn season but after his return he developed some health problems that have kept him from joining Steve on this Expedition. Martin decided to join Steve for the walk to Base Camp. Welcome Martin it is great to have you with us to Base Camp – this comes from all the staff and friends here in Nepal!!!! Steve arrived and shortly after he was set in his room a knock came and another gift from his good friend Wally Berg arrived – Mountain Dew!!!! Yes, Steve is a big fan of Mountain Dew so we now have a weekly supply of Mountain Dew. All food and equipment is packed and ready to go. The sherpas led by Nima Tashi have been working for the past few weeks to get a kitchen built and the site for our home for the next couple of months built and ready. I spoke with Nawang Pasang one of the summit sherpas last night from near Base Camp and he informed me that food and equipment had arrived in Base Camp yesterday. The Expedition is about to get underway!!!! Update posted by JMW



Steve and Martin at the Malla Hotel

Off to Lukla… 1st attempt We are off to the airport…. Let the Expedition begin. We are all on time with all our baggage and cargo ready to fly to Lukla today. There was a large group heading to Tibet this morning as we were heading to the airport. We joked about how lucky we were to not have a 5 day bus ride ahead of us…little did we know what was in store for us!!! We arrived at the airport and all seemed to be on track. We had all our gear accounted for and slowly but surely bags being sent via different airlines as cargos were arriving in Lukla ahead of us. This was a very positive sign. We waited in the airport restaurant and waited until finally we got our boarding pass. Down stairs and into the departure lounge we went. We had only been there a few minutes when our flight was called. With real spring in our step we headed for the plane… PLEASE WAIT…. Was what we were told as the bus stopped just beside the aircraft. This was not a good sign. After a small discussion we were headed back to the airport departure waiting room. “The flight is on stand-by … not cancelled” as what were told. Many, many years ago there was a sign in the Kathmandu airport that ominously reminded passengers of why sometimes it was not a good idea to fly in the clouds in Nepal “We don’t fly in clouds as our clouds have mountains in them!!!” it read. We waited and waited and waited until finally around 5 PM we were told the winds were too high on the Lamajura Pass and that low clouds had developed in the lower valley so we had to come back tomorrow and try again. We collected our bags and got out of the departure lounge where we had been being abused all afternoon by the PA system which loudly announces the flights in at least two languages as well as some ten to twenty times over and over again usually followed by “May I have your attention please…” then the announcement starts again. Listening to this all afternoon gives one a real headache. This coupled with little to eat made us all a little tired. Dinner was the first order of business so off we went to the Ghar-i-Kabab for a nice Indian meal. We all eat too much and felt stuffed as we walked back thru the streets of Kathmandu to our home at the Malla Hotel. On the way back we ran into other Everest climbers from the USA. My old friend Scott Wollums and some of his team stopped to say hello. We will all be on the mountain together in the weeks to come. For now the hustle and bustle of Kathmandu has folks running around being social and enjoying “city life’. We will again go to the airport and attempt to fly to Lukla in the morning. Good night Kathmandu!!! Posted jmw

Waiting the the lounge... all is well for now!!!



Tired and beaten by the loud speaker....



A good meal and a clean bed will remove the pain of waiting

Surprise Easter Gift Happy Easter to all at home!!!! The Expedition and trek members are all here in Kathmandu. Steve arrived without a problem today. We went to check in at the Malla Hotel where a big gift/surprise was waiting for him – Martin Glynn. Steve had no idea that Martin was going to join us on the trek to Base Camp. Martin and Steve have been on the quest to climb Mt Everest together for several years. Martin joined the Baruntse Expedition last autumn season but after his return he developed some health problems that have kept him from joining Steve on this Expedition. Martin decided to join Steve for the walk to Base Camp. Welcome Martin it is great to have you with us to Base Camp – this comes from all the staff and friends here in Nepal!!!! Steve arrived and shortly after he was set in his room a knock came and another gift from his good friend Wally Berg arrived – Mountain Dew!!!! Yes, Steve is a big fan of Mountain Dew so we now have a weekly supply of Mountain Dew. All food and equipment is packed and ready to go. The sherpas led by Nima Tashi have been working for the past few weeks to get a kitchen built and the site for our home for the next couple of months built and ready. I spoke with Nawang Pasang one of the summit sherpas last night from near Base Camp and he informed me that food and equipment had arrived in Base Camp yesterday. The Expedition is about to get underway!!!! Update posted by JMW

Steve and Martin at the Malla Hotel