PROFILEInvincible Pant, Doctor D Short Sleeve, Adamant Jacket, Powerstretch Top, ATV Pant
Kevin started climbing at age 12 at the local climbing gym, Vertex Climbing Center, where he now teaches and is the Assistant Manager. As a member of the 2001 and 2002 US Youth Climbing Team, Kevin traveled to Germany, Austria, France and many United States destinations to climb in two Youth World Cup events and two National Championships. Since then, his focus has shifted away from the competition circuit and toward quality climbing outside. As a boulderer, his highlights include Nothin' But Sunshine (v13, 8B), The Mandala (v12, 8A+), and the highball classic This Side of Paradise (v9, 7C). Testing his limits close to home, Kevin made the first all natural ascent of the Mickey's Beach Arete (5.14a, 8b+) and the immaculate Steep Climb Named Desire (5.14a, 8b+) on Donner Summit. After spending time in Joshua Tree, Kevin has found a new passion in traditional climbing that has quickly grown to El Cap, where he is working on climbing The Nose. Future goals include free climbing routes on El Cap and Half Dome, as well as graduating from Sonoma State University with a BS in Kinesiology.
Check out Kevin's new web page at kevinjorgeson.com.
performance for me, whether it be in difficulty or exposure (ideally
both.)
Getting scared and getting through it.
Trying hard and learning something.
First Ascent of The Beautiful and Damned, a 35 foot v13 (suggested E10)First Ascent of Flight of the Bumbleebee, a 40 foot v7 (suggested E8)Third Ascent of Hearun and the Sea of Stories, v12 with a nasty landingDid Equinox, 5.12c at J-Tree in my first week of trad climbingFirst Ascent of the all natural Mickey's Beach Arete, 5.14a (unrepeated)
Holds breaking when I am on a highball boulder problem/solo, Drowning, Rattlesnakes, Avalanches, Burning alive.
Climb The Nose!!!! I want to develop the efficiency and stamina it takes to free routes on El Capitan. First I just want to get up the thing, via the Nose. Then I want to focus on freeing routes. If I don’t climb the sit to Mandala this year, I will continue to try it in 2007 for sure. The Mandala is a climb that I tried WAY before it was physically possible for me, purely for the reason that the line was the most beautiful I had ever seen. Over the years, I began to piece it together until one crisp November day in 2003 when it all came together. Now, I’d like to climb it in its’ new entirety. Aside from specific climbs, I would like to see a shift in climbing culture and industry away from achievement and towards building a growing, enduring, cross-generational climbing community that will carry the message that climbing is as much a practice and a lifestyle than a simple diversion or hobby.
What makes you tick? What makes you climb? Climbing is something I have been doing since before I can even remember (according to my parents). Finding rock climbing when I was 13 was perfect. It fits my personality precisely, takes me amazing places, teaches me respect for the environment and others, motivates me to improve, and keeps me humble on those high gravity days. What makes me climb? This has evolved since I’ve begun, but right now: El Cap and striking highball boulder lines.
Year in Review: Pre-2006 – Up until 2003, I competed a lot. Highlights were falling off the opening sequence of the 2001 Nationals finals route but onsighting the finals route in 2002 to win and then traveling to Germany, Austria, and France to climb and compete with the US Team. Since 2003, I’ve shifted my focus more and more to climbing outside. On new years’ day of 2000 I did my first v10, a local problem at my first area I climbed at. In 2001 I did my first v11, in 2002 I completed the Mandala (a personal highlight), and in 2003 I fell off the wet top out of Nothing but Sunshine, a v13 in RMNP, which would have been the 4th ascent and first one day ascent. No worries. In 2004 I returned and settled the score, this time with no falls into the talus pits of death. 2005 was a year full of school, but I still managed to polish off a project I worked for two years, the all-natural Mickey’s Beach Arete (don’t blame me for the music on that vid, just turn the sound off!). 2006 – I spent new years’ in Joshua Tree and ignited an interest in trad climbing. I took my first fall onto gear, a green alien while on Equinox, 5.12c, and I have since bought a rack and been going to the valley as much as possible. The highlight of this year would have to be going to Bishop in February with the distinct goal of two highball boulders: This Side of Paradise, and Herun and the Sea of Stories. Both climbs were amazing, but “Paradise” is the perfect climb. Tall, almost too tall, with just enough holds, and a crux that makes you want to curl up in a ball and cry. At v9, it was the hardest climbing I’ve done while more than 20 feet off the ground, and it required a new level of motivation and focus for me to be able to do. In June, I got my first taste of El Cap, climbing up to the Dolt Tower in a day with a good friend before rapping off due to lack of water. I can’t wait to get back. For this year, I am motivated for the sit to Mandala, developing my teaching skills as a climbing instructor, and staying in good health.