Kevin JorgesonPROFILE
October 7, 1984
Santa Rosa, California
Marmot, Asana Packworks, Sterling Rope, Five Ten

Invincible Pant, Doctor D Short Sleeve, Adamant Jacket, Powerstretch Top, ATV Pant

Kevin started climbing at age 12 at the local climbing gym, Vertex Climbing Center, where he now teaches and is the Assistant Manager. As a member of the 2001 and 2002 US Youth Climbing Team, Kevin traveled to Germany, Austria, France and many United States destinations to climb in two Youth World Cup events and two National Championships. Since then, his focus has shifted away from the competition circuit and toward quality climbing outside.Jorgeson is known for establishing cutting edge highball boulder problems across the globe, from California to Colorado to South Africa. Career highlights include the first ascents of The Beautiful and Damned (35’ V13), Footprints (50’ v10), Flight of the Bumblebee (40’ v9), The Golden Rule (5.12 R/X), Ambrosia (45’ v12/5.14), The Duel (30’ v10), Fish Out Of Water (25’ v12), The Heist (35’ v12), and Put Some Bachar Into It (5.12 X). Not limited to highball bouldering, Jorgeson has climbed several v14 boulder problems, including Ode to the Modern Man in Colorado, The Swarm in California, The Mandala Sit Start in California, and the second rope-less ascent of The Fly in New Hampshire. In England, together with Matt Segal and Alex Honnold, Jorgeson made headlines by quickly repeating many of the country’s most feared and dangerous routes, including The Groove (E10), The Promise (E10), Meshuga (E9), The New Statesman (E8), End of the Affair (E8) and Gaia (E8). Most recently, Jorgeson applied all of his experience and preparation for his most dangerous and memorable first ascent to date, Ambrosia, a 45’ 5.14 free solo in Bishop, CA. Currently, Jorgeson has teamed up with Tommy Caldwell to work on the first ascent of Mescalito, on El Capitan. If completed, this route will likely be the hardest big wall free climb in the world.

Check out Kevin's new web page at kevinjorgeson.com.

I am inspired by climbs that require a new level of focus and
performance for me, whether it be in difficulty or exposure (ideally
both.)
Being outside.
Getting scared and getting through it.
Trying hard and learning something.
Try harder...
Burritos or Thai

First Ascent of The Beautiful and Damned, a 35 foot v13 (suggested E10)First Ascent of Flight of the Bumbleebee, a 40 foot v7 (suggested E8)Third Ascent of Hearun and the Sea of Stories, v12 with a nasty landingDid Equinox, 5.12c at J-Tree in my first week of trad climbingFirst Ascent of the all natural Mickey's Beach Arete, 5.14a (unrepeated)

This Side of Paradise, Bardini Boulders, CA
Pulp Fiction
RJD2, Modest Mouse, Tool, Blockhead

Holds breaking when I am on a highball boulder problem/solo, Drowning, Rattlesnakes, Avalanches, Burning alive.

I think I've gotten myself into more trouble when not climbing. Saggital cranial synostosis at age 6 months, kidney surgery at age 9, dog bite to the face good for 60 stitches at age 10, and then things tappered off when I started climbing. My first and last climbing injuries have both resulted in a broken right wrist. When I was in the fouth grade, I fell out of my front yard tree onto my face with my arm underneath me. Then, in 2002, I fell off of the wet top out of Nothin' But Sunshine (v13) in Rocky Mountain National Park into a pit of talus, resulting in what should have been a lot more than a broken wrist! I definately got out of that one lucky.
Traffic. It makes me want to quit climbing and become a rally car driver for Subaru. :)

Climb The Nose!!!! I want to develop the efficiency and stamina it takes to free routes on El Capitan. First I just want to get up the thing, via the Nose. Then I want to focus on freeing routes. If I don’t climb the sit to Mandala this year, I will continue to try it in 2007 for sure. The Mandala is a climb that I tried WAY before it was physically possible for me, purely for the reason that the line was the most beautiful I had ever seen. Over the years, I began to piece it together until one crisp November day in 2003 when it all came together. Now, I’d like to climb it in its’ new entirety. Aside from specific climbs, I would like to see a shift in climbing culture and industry away from achievement and towards building a growing, enduring, cross-generational climbing community that will carry the message that climbing is as much a practice and a lifestyle than a simple diversion or hobby.

What makes you tick? What makes you climb? Climbing is something I have been doing since before I can even remember (according to my parents). Finding rock climbing when I was 13 was perfect. It fits my personality precisely, takes me amazing places, teaches me respect for the environment and others, motivates me to improve, and keeps me humble on those high gravity days. What makes me climb? This has evolved since I’ve begun, but right now: El Cap and striking highball boulder lines.

Year in Review: Pre-2006 – Up until 2003, I competed a lot. Highlights were falling off the opening sequence of the 2001 Nationals finals route but onsighting the finals route in 2002 to win and then traveling to Germany, Austria, and France to climb and compete with the US Team. Since 2003, I’ve shifted my focus more and more to climbing outside. On new years’ day of 2000 I did my first v10, a local problem at my first area I climbed at. In 2001 I did my first v11, in 2002 I completed the Mandala (a personal highlight), and in 2003 I fell off the wet top out of Nothing but Sunshine, a v13 in RMNP, which would have been the 4th ascent and first one day ascent. No worries. In 2004 I returned and settled the score, this time with no falls into the talus pits of death. 2005 was a year full of school, but I still managed to polish off a project I worked for two years, the all-natural Mickey’s Beach Arete (don’t blame me for the music on that vid, just turn the sound off!). 2006 – I spent new years’ in Joshua Tree and ignited an interest in trad climbing. I took my first fall onto gear, a green alien while on Equinox, 5.12c, and I have since bought a rack and been going to the valley as much as possible. The highlight of this year would have to be going to Bishop in February with the distinct goal of two highball boulders: This Side of Paradise, and Herun and the Sea of Stories. Both climbs were amazing, but “Paradise” is the perfect climb. Tall, almost too tall, with just enough holds, and a crux that makes you want to curl up in a ball and cry. At v9, it was the hardest climbing I’ve done while more than 20 feet off the ground, and it required a new level of motivation and focus for me to be able to do. In June, I got my first taste of El Cap, climbing up to the Dolt Tower in a day with a good friend before rapping off due to lack of water. I can’t wait to get back. For this year, I am motivated for the sit to Mandala, developing my teaching skills as a climbing instructor, and staying in good health.

Rock Rodeo by Chuck Fryberger Practice for Life by Kevin Jorgeson Passion for Life by Kevin Jorgeson Minimalist Jacket Video Review by Kevin Jorgeson Kevin Jorgeson Climbs in Music Video