PROFILEPete Takeda
Fleece hoody, Couloir Sleeping bag, Exo-suit, Superhero Jacket, Plasma Parka
I - Climbing: In over 25 years of climbing, I’ve climbed Grade VI’s in a day, 5.13+ sport routes, 5.12+ trad, A5 aid, M10 mixed, V10 bouldering, WI7 ice, up to 7400 meters in alpine, 5.12 offwidths, free soloed (onsight) 5.11b, and onsighted 5.12d. One could say that I am almost a complete all-arounder. I’ve authored 100 first ascents from big walls like “When Hell Was In Session” (VI, 5.10, A5), to mixed routes like “Fatman and Robin” (WI 5, M9, one of the three hardest mixed climbs in the world at the time of the first ascent). On free rock, I’ve done firsts like “Brennivin” (5.12+, trad and unrepeated), “Cripps” (5.13b sport, one of the hardest free climbs in Yosemite at the time of the first ascent), and Sadhu Sit-Start (V8 at 14,400 feet in the Himalayas). II - Other: I am the author of three books including “Extreme Sports: Climb!” (National Geographic, September, 2002) and “An Eye at the Top of the World” (Avalon, September, 2006). I am a writer for Outside, Senior Contributing Editor to Rock and Ice and contributor to Alpinist, Climbing, Backpacker, and Sports Afield.
I started climbing as a boulderer 27 years ago. That was back when it really was not a cool thing to do. I’ve cycled through the disciplines but right now, I really want to climb big mountains by technical alpine routes.
Another book, more climbing....
Peter Takeda is a Senior Contributing Editor to Rock and Ice magazine and contributor to Outside, Sports Afield and Backpacker. His articles appear in leading international outdoor journals including Climbing (USA), Sola (Japan), Alp (Italy), Vertical (France) and Desnivel (France). Takeda is the author of Pete’s Wicked Book (Primemedia, 2000) and Extreme Sports: Climb! (National Geographic Society, 2002). His new book, An Eye At The Top Of The World (Thunder’s Mouth Press/Avalon Publishing, 2006) was released in October 2006. Takeda is a former Content Developer for Boulder-based Texture Media Inc. His work included copywriting, editing, and information architecture. He has also completed field research work for Boulder-based Radar Communications on behalf of client including Levi’s, World Vision, and other Fortune 500 companies. As an internationally recognized rock, ice and alpine climber, Takeda travels the world. Besides recently appearing on OLN’s Most Dangerous Places series, he’s competed in the ESPN Winter X-Games and climbed in Alaska, Canada, Iceland, Europe, Mexico, Australia and Scotland. His climbing exploits, many supported by International awards and grants, have been covered in Sports Illustrated, Men’s Health, Outside and Sports Afield. As leader of several climbing expeditions to Asia, Takeda led four ventures into the Garhwal and Kumaon Himalayas. He is a long-time member of the Marmot Design Board, a Marmot sponsored athlete and speaker on behalf of the American Alpine Club and Outward Bound. He also sits on the board of the American Mountain Guides Association. Takeda lives in Boulder, Colorado.
Check out Pete's video: Eye On Top Of The World