Pete TakedaPROFILE
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May 24, 1964

Fleece hoody, Couloir Sleeping bag, Exo-suit, Superhero Jacket, Plasma Parka

Pete Takeda is a recognized all-around rock, ice and alpine climber. He’s competed in the ESPN Winter X-Games and climbed in Alaska, Canada, Iceland, Europe, Mexico, Australia and Scotland. Takeda led six ventures into the Garhwal and Kumaon and Karakoram Himalayas. His climbing exploits, many supported by International awards and grants, have been covered in Sports Illustrated, Men’s Health, Outside and Sports Afield. Takeda’s the author of three books including AN EYE AT THE TOP OF THE WORLD. His articles appear in leading international outdoor journals including. He writes for Outside, is a Senior Contributing Editor for Rock & Ice and contributor to Alpinist, Climbing, Backpacker, and Sports Afield. He is a long-time Marmot athlete and sits on the board of the American Mountain Guides Association. Takeda lives in Boulder, Colorado.

I’ll eat anything that once walked, crawled, grew or flew, but I really enjoy sushi! I also like Indian, Thai, Mexican.

I - Climbing: In over 25 years of climbing, I’ve climbed Grade VI’s in a day, 5.13+ sport routes, 5.12+ trad, A5 aid, M10 mixed, V10 bouldering, WI7 ice, up to 7400 meters in alpine, 5.12 offwidths, free soloed (onsight) 5.11b, and onsighted 5.12d. One could say that I am almost a complete all-arounder. I’ve authored 100 first ascents from big walls like “When Hell Was In Session” (VI, 5.10, A5), to mixed routes like “Fatman and Robin” (WI 5, M9, one of the three hardest mixed climbs in the world at the time of the first ascent). On free rock, I’ve done firsts like “Brennivin” (5.12+, trad and unrepeated), “Cripps” (5.13b sport, one of the hardest free climbs in Yosemite at the time of the first ascent), and Sadhu Sit-Start (V8 at 14,400 feet in the Himalayas). II - Other: I am the author of three books including “Extreme Sports: Climb!” (National Geographic, September, 2002) and “An Eye at the Top of the World” (Avalon, September, 2006). I am a writer for Outside, Senior Contributing Editor to Rock and Ice and contributor to Alpinist, Climbing, Backpacker, and Sports Afield.

I started climbing as a boulderer 27 years ago. That was back when it really was not a cool thing to do. I’ve cycled through the disciplines but right now, I really want to climb big mountains by technical alpine routes.

The one I am trying tomorrow.... Believe me, it is great!
Cross of Iron, Dawn of the Dead (2004 remake), The Big Lebowski, High Fidelity
Middle left finger tendon, Right ankle twist, Left shoulder strain

Another book, more climbing....

Check out Pete's video: Eye On Top Of The World